Martin Set Up : Martin D 41 1972 Neck Reset






This Martin D 41 is in the workshop because the action needs lowering. The action is making it difficult to play above the 5th fret. It’s a vintage guitar made in 1972 and is in very good condition, it has a few bumps and knocks that you would expect from a guitar of this age. Its finish is lacquer checked and cracked in that desirable old vintage way (hasn’t shown up too well in the photos).

During a Workbench Assessment it is concluded that there is no adjustment left in the Bridge Saddle height. It has probably been adjusted over the years until there is no more height available to removed.

To understand how the action on an acoustic guitar can become higher over time we need to go back and look at its design and manufacture.


The Design

Flat-top acoustic guitars such as this Martin D41 are designed as a straight-line in the horizontal plane. To explain that a little more clearly; it’s a straight-line from the line of the neck onto the soundboard, as seen from the player’s view of the guitar. The fingerboard and bridge are then added to the design.

Ideally with the truss-rod set correctly the string line will start at the nut and show an approximate gap of .011″ between the first fret and the underside of the string (bass E) and then gently slope upward to show an approximate gap of .075″ above the 12th fret and then on to strike the saddle at a good height. These measurements are approximations and will differ from guitar to guitar.

In this photo of a 1977 Gibson Hummingbird, it shows a saddle that is at a good height. The string angle leaving the saddle onto the bridge-pins is steep. This gives a good string tension and good volume and should culminate to give a comfortable and buzz-free playing action. (click photo to enlarge)

However, after some time things change. Due to constant string tension, humidity and temperature changes this straight-line ideal between neck and soundboard starts to distort. This could happen 1 year or 50 years after manufacture. Over time the bridge area of the soundboard begins to rise up and the area of soundboard at the upper bout begins to sink. Our theoretical straight-line acquires a shallow indentation. The end result is a high playing action.

An Easy Solution

The quick-fix remedy is to lower the action at the saddle to allow the string action to be playable again. This adjustment has only a limited availability. After several adjustments the saddle becomes too low, as this photo of the D 41 on the right indicates.

Any further adjustment here will result in virtually no saddle height. Therefore, very little string break-angle into the pin-holes, less tension to the strings culminating in less overall volume. (click photo to enlarge)

What can be done to solve this?

On some budget acoustic guitars, the top of the bridge can be skimmed and lowered to allow for more saddle to be exposed. This will permit further adjustments to the saddle height to be made. This method is not ideal but can be the only solution.

On more valuable or vintage guitars a neck re-set is the only option.

How do I know when a neck re-set is needed?

A simple test:

  • Sight down the fingerboard of the guitar from the headstock end.
  • Look at the line of the fingerboard.
  • Follow that line through to the bridge beyond. (click photo to enlarge)

If your sight-line strikes a point under the bridge saddle your guitar could need a neck re-set.


How is a neck re-set?

This short video clip shows the neck reset of this D 41.

Soundtrack : Mountain Spring by Jeremy Sherman

One other job

All that remains to be done on this D 41 is to replace the first 4 frets. They look a little worse for wear and would probably impede the set up of the guitar.

The guitar is strung up with 12 – 53 gauge string, it sounds and plays fantastic.

One happy owner; meet Tony Werneke the proprietor of Replay Acoustics. Tony has a multitude of hand-picked classic vintage guitars; check them out here…




as seen from the player’s view of the guitar


Acoustic Guitar Repair : Gibson J 30





Towards the end on 2010 I had a telephone call from Valencia in Spain.

It was an owner of a Gibson J 30 acoustic who explained that he was having a problem with the soundboard on the guitar. He described how the soundboard was lifting badly behind the bridge, which was causing the bridge to “ride-up”. This, in turn, was causing a high playing action.

My first question was to ask if there wasn’t anyone in or around Valencia that could repair the guitar; Spain being the land of the Classical guitar with a Luthier on every street corner. I was interested to hear that American-made steel strung guitars such as this J 30 were outside of the local Spanish Luthiers comfort zone and their ethos to such a problem is: “If in doubt replace the soundboard”. Which conveniently side-steps the issue and also would change the guitar’s identity and characteristics forever.

After exchanging a few more ideas and discussing the possible causes of the problem I agreed to take on the repair. Several days later the guitar arrived by special carrier and I was able to take an in-depth look.

The bellying problem is shown in this photo.

Research and Background

The J 30 is a delicate and finely made instrument.  Made between 1985-1997, this guitar is a dreadnought size flat top acoustic with square shoulders. More info here…

With further investigation I was able to discover that the J 30 was (possibly) an experimental model by Gibson using a parabolic soundboard. This made me sit up and listen! Was the soundboard supposed to be this shape? All soundboards have a slight curve built into them to help with strength and stiffness. It would appear Gibson flirted with the parabolic idea on the J 30. However, if this shape was built into the design it wasn’t working very well.


Investigating the problem

The neck angle is correct; therefore this is not a possible cause.

This photo is taken through the sound-hole and shows a mirror image of the bridge plate. The size of the plate certainly could contribute to the bellying problem.

Click image to enlarge

In this photo of the soundboard, you will notice a very wide growth-ring pattern. Without writing a lengthy explanation as to why this could add to the problem (perhaps another time) it must suffice to say that the tighter or closer together the growth-rings the stronger the soundboard. Therefore this very wide growth-ring pattern could contribute to the deformation in the soundboard.

Click image to enlarge

Here’s a close-up of edge of the bridge. In this photograph stress lines have formed around the bridge wings. This could be due to the rotating effect of the bridge at its extremities or a loose brace.

Click image to enlarge

To sum up,  we have deformation in the soundboard due to the following possible causes:

  • A probable parabolic shape built into the soundboard
  • Dubious soundboard strength due to a wide growth-ring pattern
  • A bridge-plate that is not helping to stiffen that crucial area of the soundboard
  • Possible loose brace

A Possible Solution

  • There is nothing that can be done with the soundboard quality apart from following the Spanish Luthiers advice. However, the soundboard could be gently eased into a flatter parabola.
  • The bridge-plate could be exchanged for a larger and sturdier replacement to help flatten the soundboard
  • The bridge could be removed and the underside subtlety shaped to help flatten the soundboard




The Repair

The internal braces are checked: all in order.

The bridge and bridge-plate are gently moistened and heated. This softens the glue and ensures easy removal.

Once removed and while the area of the soundboard around the bridge and bridge-plate are in a “moist” state, the soundboard is gently eased into a flatter shape.  It is left to dry-out in a quiet part of the workshop for a few weeks.

A new bridge-plate is made up. This is designed slightly larger, slightly thicker than the original and is made from quarter-sawn Rosewood for extra sturdiness.

After several weeks of drying-out time the new Rosewood bridge-plate is glued into place. Whilst the glue is drying the soundboard is kept in its flatter shape.

After several days in clamp the bridge is refitted.  All the while the soundboard is held in its flatter shape. (no photo available)

After a few days the guitar is strung up, tuned to concert pitch and monitored. Several days later all seems well.


The Before and After Assessment

Before                                                                                     After


Improvements

The shape of the soundboard has improved considerably. Although still in is Parabolic state it has become less extreme at the soundboard edges resulting in the bridge sitting slightly lower and thus giving a better playing action, better feel and better sound quality.

The J 30 has improved considerably with the work that was carried out. It plays beautifully and now has that lush Gibson sound again. This repair was considered a success and the owner back in Spain was delighted. All that remains is to organise the shipping back to Valencia.


Contact

A few days after shipment I received this email:

Hi Graham

The guitar arrived safe and sound yesterday and plays beautifully.
Thank you once again for your excellent service, I really do
appreciate it.

Saludos

Michael

More photos on Flickr…





Vintage Bass Guitar Repairs : 1963 Fender Precision Bass





Here’s a piece of history on the workbench. A fantastic Precision Bass made by Leo Fender in 1963, two years before the company was sold to the mighty CBS Broadcasting Inc. Its age makes this instrument a fascinating, valuable, and classic piece of music industry folklore. Leo Fender/CBS history here…

It also has an interesting ownership history as it was owned and played by Richard McCracken who was the bassist in Rory Gallagher’s band Taste. The bass can be seen being played by Richard on stage here… at the Isle of Wight Festival in 1970. More festival history here…

The current owner bought the bass sometime in the 1970s from a well known music shop in South East London. It enjoyed a busy playing life for a few years but eventually got put into storage. And there it has remained until now. The owner has decided to start playing again and needs his bass back.

~

After an extensive workshop examination it was decided that the bass should remain fairly unchanged if it is to retain its authenticity and value. With vintage guitars this workshop prefers to adopt a “less is more” work ethic.

The good news is that the guitar has very little wrong with it. The pick-ups and electrics are in working order. The truss-rod, bridge-saddles and machine heads still work properly. The only work required is for a few frets to be replaced, two new speed knobs, new strings and a set-up.

The neck angle is a little shallow, causing a high playing action.  This is easy to adjust with this type of bolt-on neck.

The factory date stamp verifies the age of the neck. The prefix “C” indicates the neck profile type ~ Frets 1 – 11 are showing signs of heavy wear

The frets are gently heated and removed. The fingerboard is lightly sanded and the fret slots slightly enlarged

The following video clip shows the partial re-fret in Fast Mo

Meet the owner Jim, he’s the man with the bass (and the shades)

More enlarged photos here…

Soundtrack: Bass Instinct 5 by Chris Norton and Frank Mizen


A week or so later I received this email from Teresa, Jim’s partner and instigator of the restoration work.

Hi Graham,
I just wanted to drop you a line to say thank you for the work you have done on Jimmy’s guitar.  He can’t believe it’s the same instrument, the magic you have worked on his baby is unbelievable.  Great service, from your initial advice on the phone, for recognising that it is a rare vintage guitar and for your sympathetic restoration.  We really appreciate your less is more approach to work carried out on this type of guitar.  You have managed to improve the playability yet retain the character of this wonderful old beast.  We had not realised how important it was to retain as much of the originality of an instrument from that era, and your knowledge and expertise was greatly appreciated.  Your passion in your work is something very rare in this day and age. The additional research you did, finding a YouTube clip of the guitar being played at the Isle of Wight festival was very impressive.

Having looked at the piece about the guitar on your web site we thought you might also like to know a little bit more about the missing years.  Jimmy played in a band called Michael Robinson and in several pub/club bands in the 1970’s and 1980’s in the South East London area.  The Michael Robinson band even had a single (Rich Man) released on President Record label which had airplay on Radio 1 and was slated by Tony Blackburn. At which point Jimmy decided to join the ‘establishment’ and get a proper job!!!!!!

When we dropped off the guitar another one of your clients was just leaving and his passing comment to us was, “it’s in good hands” and he was right.  We would recommend your service to anyone with a guitar in need of some love, care and restoration; because we know that’s what any instrument left with you will receive.

You will be pleased to know that Jimmy has now bought a guitar stand is about to invest in a case…..lol!!!!

Best wishes,

Teresa and Jimmy





Gibson Guitar Repair : 1969 Southern Jumbo





The owner of this lovely old Gibson SJ thinks it doesn’t have the sound projection that it should have.

My suggestion is to fit a GPL Saddle Insert to replace the existing adjustable bridge saddle.

Adjustable bridge saddles of this type were used by Gibson and Epiphone on their acoustic guitars during the 1960s. This adjustment gives the player the opportunity to set the action to the required height to suit the player’s style. However, when the saddle is set to a good playing action the saddle makes no contact with the soundboard; this is the down side to this system. This lack of contact is due to the saddle being suspended on two adjusting posts. These posts are screwed into two threaded inserts that are housed into the soundboard. Therefore the transmission of sound vibration from the strings to the soundboard is via two metal adjusting posts. This is not an ideal situation for producing good volume or tone. Simple logic would dictate that the more contact the saddle has with the bridge or soundboard the more transmission of sound, therefore producing more volume and more tone.

View Forum discussion here...


What is a GPL Saddle Insert ? A GPL Saddle Insert replaces the existing adjustable bridge saddle found on vintage Gibson and Epiphone guitars. It’s a non-invasive modification and can be removed if necessary. It’s an idea that I’ve used on several vintage guitars in the past which has enhanced the volume and tone and brought out the true voice of the guitar.

The Process

  1. The adjustable saddle is removed
  2. A GPL Saddle Insert is custom-made from matching woods to fit the slot
  3. The insert is glued into place
  4. The saddle position is marked out
  5. A saddle slot is routed into the insert
  6. A bone saddle is custom-made
  7. The string height is set for optimum playability

The GPL Saddle Insert is glued into place using high quality Hide glue. The remarkable thing about Hide glue is that it’s reversible. With most synthetic glues when it’s stuck it stays stuck. Not the case with Hide glue because it’s an organic material that softens with heat and moisture.  Therefore, by using a little heat and moisture the insert can be released and removed. Consequently, if the old saddle system needs to be put back into place it’s a simple job to reverse the above process and re-install the adjustable bridge saddle.


The Dilemma

Meanwhile the debate still rages on about the rights and wrongs of upgrading any aspects of a “vintage” guitar. Many owners of instruments that are of a certain age are reluctant to change any element of that instrument because it would no longer be origin. In a nutshell, if you have a guitar that’s 30 plus years old, making upgrades or changes to it could make it worth less than if it remained unchanged.

View a recent poll discussing the pros and cons of vintage guitar upgrades here…

The GPL Saddle Insert cuts across this issue because it is a non-invasive change that can be removed when required. If you have an old vintage acoustic that’s not living up to its potential contact this workshop and ask about the GPL Saddle Insert.

Update 23.01.11

An email from the SJ owner, shortly after collecting from the workshop

…………………………… it doesn’t show a lot of play wear and this might have been because it didn’t respond well and as a result, it never got the play for it to break-in and open-up since there was no vibration getting to the soundboard.   Now that the vibration is connected to the soundboard for the first time in its life, it might open up and get much better than it has ever been; wishful thinking or rational reasoning?  Even playing it last night warmed it up and as the evening wore on it seemed to sound better. I do have to say that it now does have a mystical kind of sound that is quite beguiling when one becomes familiar with it. As you can see, my enthusiasm has returned for the old SJ.





Vintage Acoustic Guitar Restoration:1977 Gibson Hummingbird





Here’s another golden oldie on the workbench, a Gibson Hummingbird made in 1977.

Introduced in 1960, the Hummingbird was Gibson’s second-most expensive acoustic guitar.

This guitar is interesting from a luthiery point of view as it has a Double X Brace system which was introduced on this model in 1971. In this system, two overlapping X shapes form a diamond which surrounds the bridge plate. Some manufacturers prefer this system where additional strength is required.

Here’s a mirror image of the Double X Brace system inside this Hummingbird

For reference purposes here’s a photo of a double X brace system that I built a few years ago.


This vintage beauty is in the workshop for a set up. It becomes clear during a workbench examination that this ol’ Hummer has some problems that will need to be addressed before it will set up to its optimum playability.

It has a very high action with a very low saddle height,  no room for adjustment there.

Its bridge is beginning to lift

On investigating the guitar’s action it becomes clear that the string height cannot be lowered at the bridge saddle and the only repair solution will be a neck reset. The bridge will need to be removed and re-fitted.


The Neck Removal and Reset

The 15th fret is removed

The fingerboard extension is heated and loosened

A hole is drilled through the vacant fret slot into the dove-tail cavity

The lacquer is scored around the heel

The neck is fitted into a Neck Removal Jig. Steam is pumped into the join to soften the glue

The neck becomes loose and is separated from the body

This date stamp authenticates the guitar’s age

The neck angle is adjusted using the neck reset formula and re-fitted


The Bridge Re-fit

The bridge is heated and removed

Herein lies a problem; this bridge (for some unknown reason) has been inlayed into the soundboard. This could be a reason as to why the bridge has begun to lift and will need to be remedied before the bridge can be refitted.

Take a closer look at the internal image; the bridge-pin holes (through the soundboard and into the bridge-plate) have become distorted. This could cause a problem when trying to re-stringing the guitar as the bridge-pins will not seat correctly.

The solution is to inlay a soundboard patch to restore the soundboard height and to repair the distorted pin holes


The Soundboard Repair

The area under the bridge is levelled and cleaned up

The pin holes are drilled out and fitted with new Spruce

The scratchplate is removed for ease of working

A soundboard patch is made up from Sitka Spruce,  glued into place and trimmed to thickness

The underneath of the bridge and soundboard patch are gently heated to extend the open time of the Hide Glue

The Hide glue is applied and the join is clamped and left overnight

The hole in the fret slot is plugged and re-sawn

The scratchplate is replaced

The 15th fret is replaced

A new bone nut is made and the guitar is re-strung and tested for correct intonation

Back to full health again

More enlarged photos here…

More info here…

More history here…




Vintage Guitar Repair: Gibson L 75 1932





Here’s a rare oldie in the workshop. A lovely old Gibson L 75 acoustic archtop made in 1932, one of Gibson’s rarest archtop models.

It has a body size at the lower bout of 16″ and a scale length of  24 3/4″ also a nut width of 1 3/4″. It has a hand carved book-matched solid spruce top, solid mahogany neck, back and sides and a Brazilian rosewood fingerboard. The hardware includes a compensated Brazilian rosewood bridge, trapeze tailpiece and Grover nickel-plated Sta-Tite open back tuners.


It’s in very good condition considering its age. All is as it should be apart from 1 missing and 3 loose back braces.

This is an ideal opportunity to use my new scissors jack

Inspecting the inside of any old instrument is an interesting prospect, you never know what you may find. In this case it was an old beer ring-pull and quite a lot of vintage fluff and dust.

Typically the furthest back-brace has become detached at one end

A magnet on the outside is used to manoeuvre the jack into place

The scissor jack makes an easy job of it

The other braces are much easier to access

A new matching brace is made and installed

A new set of strings, a bridge position/intonation check, a

truss rod tweak and its ready to go

Hey I sound just like Robert Johnson says Glenn of Glenn’s Guitar

Enlarged photos on Flickr


First of all, a big thank you to everyone who has used this workshop and website this year

May I use this opportunity to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Graham


Acoustic Guitar Setup: Gibson Hummingbird Custom Shop





 

This Beautiful brand new Gibson Hummingbird Custom Shop is in the workshop for a quick set-up.

Its new owner has only just taken delivery of it and wants to get it checked over.

It’s in fine fettle and is just given a truss-rod and action adjustment.

It’s given a clean bill of health

Enlarged photos here…


 

Spec:

Body
Soundboard          ~     Sitka Spruce
Back and Sides     ~     AAA” Figured Koa
Binding                   ~     Multi-ply Top w/ Abalone, Multi-ply back
Bracing                   ~     X-Bracing
Rosette                   ~     Double Ring w/Abalone
Hardware
Bridge                      ~    Ebony Belly Up
Scratchplate         ~    Tortoise Hummingbird Inlay
Tuners                     ~    Gold Grovers Engraved Knobs





 

Acoustic Guitar Repairs: Guild JF55 12 String





 

This Guild 12 string has started to rattle badly across its bridge saddle.

On close inspection it appears that the bridge is raised. This fault is caused by the soundboard bulging or bellying in an area just behind the bridge. This is the rotational cause and effect of the bridge twisting under string tension and rising up at the back-end causing the string to lose its break point at the saddle. A classic example is the soundboard bellying behind the bridge and the soundboard sinking in front of the bridge. These problems can manifest themselves as poor intonation or string rattle across the bridge saddle. If left unchecked it could result in the bridge lifting and becoming unattached.

The cause of this problem can be due to several factors:

  • Soundboard too thin
  • Loose or weak internal bracing
  • Faulty bridge-plate*
  • Excessive string tension due to incorrect neck angle

On this fine old Guild the neck angle is as it should be. The soundboard seems to be fine with no loose struts. In reality, because this is a 12 string the soundboard thickness and struts are massively engineered. However, the bridge-plate could be at fault as it seems a little undersized to be of any great benefit. With some bridge-plates, over time and with excessive string tension and humidity changes, the glue can start to creep resulting in the plate splitting and going out of shape. In this case the bridge-plate is made of Curly Maple (odd choice) with the grain running along its length.

As all the other possible causes seem in order, the way forward is to remove and replace the bridge-plate with a slightly thicker and heavier plate made of a stiffer hard-wood.

* The bridge-plate is a wooden reinforcing patch that is glued to the soundboard directly under the bridge. It has the task of stiffening that part of the soundboard directly under the bridge and helps to counteract the twisting force from the bridge. Also it reinforces the soundboard area where the bridge-pins and string ball-ends lock into place.



The bridge is removed. The bridge-plate is dampened with a wet cloth to soften the glue. A little heat is used; the heat from a light bulb is enough to warm the plate through to soften the glue

 



The soundboard is clamped in a concave posture to help reinstate a flatter shape and left in a quite part of the workshop for several weeks

 



This short video clip takes you through the repair process

Soundtrack: Perfect World by Jeremy Sherman

 

Follow this link for enlarged photos on flickr…






Broken Guitar Neck





This Gibson Les Paul is in the workshop because of a headstock break.

It fell over in its case and when the guitar arrived at a gig the disaster was discovered.

The owner was not too interested in the guitar being invisibly repaired. He just needed it back quick for gigs at the weekend!


Arrived at the workshop on the Wednesday.

Stripped, glued up and left in clamps over night on the Thursday

Fitted up and strung-up for testing on the Friday



Set up on the Saturday

Collected and gigging Saturday night

A quick turn-around repair, designed to meet the highest standards.

Invisible headstock repair case study here…



Acoustic Guitar Repair: Vintage Epiphone Texan Neck Re-set







This lovely old Epiphone Texan was made in 1951.

The Guitar was taken into the workshop for some major repair work. It has many problems: a split in the soundboard, loose soundboard , loose bindings, fret wear, high action and intonation problems.

 

History in Brief

The Texan was produced by the Epiphone Company starting in 1942. After Epiphone folded, the Gibson Company produced the Texan in Kalamazoo Michigan until 1970. There have been numerous reissues of the Texan since their primary production period in the 1960′s. More here…

The Players

The Texan was made popular by Sir Paul McCartney for the recording and the live performances of the hit song from 1965 “Yesterday”. It is also famous for being the acoustic guitar on which McCartney performed the signature “McCartney Picking” in some album pieces such as “Blackbird”, “Mother Nature’s Son” (The Beatles “White Album”), “Calico Skies”( Flaming Pie), and more recently “Jenny Wren” (Chaos and Creation in the Backyard). Kurt Cobain of Nirvana used an Epiphone Texan on the 1994 In Utero tour. Also, Graham Nash used an early customized black (originally “cherryburst”) Epiphone Texan while in The Hollies and during the beginnings of Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young. Other artists with which the Texan is identified are Tom Rush, Al Stewart, Noel Gallagher and Peter Frampton. More here…



This straight-edge reveals where the string height should be

 

On a budget guitar the financially viable option would be to plane down the top of the bridge and set the saddle groove and saddle lower. However, on this valuable vintage instrument such an invasive repair is not an option. The only course of action is to remove the neck and reset at the appropriate angle.

It was also noted, in the initial work-bench examination, that the neck was positioned incorrectly for accurate intonation, another reason to remove the neck.

 

 


To reset a neck on any acoustic guitar is a complicated and difficult procedure.

Firstly the 15th fret is removed

Two small holes are drilled into the slot of the 15th fret (at a slight angle). These holes will allow steam to be forced into the neck’s dove-tail join. The 15th fret is approximately situated over the space between the female part of the dove-tail on the body and the male part on the neck.

The lacquer around the heel is scored with a sharp blade, to stop lacquer break-out when the neck is removed.

The fingerboard extension is heated. This softens the glue and allows it to be separated from the top of the guitar.

With the help of this neck removal jig the neck is safely removed.

A calculation is made using the “Neck Re-set Formula”. This allows the exact amount to be removed from the heel (for the correct neck angle) to be accurately determined.

A further adjustment is made to the tenon, heel and shoulder to shorten the string length and allow for correct intonation.

Two Rosewood dowels are made up to fill the two small holes drilled into the fingerboard.

The 15th fret is replaced and a hone and re-profile to all frets carried out to remove all fret wear.

With the neck angle adjusted the neck is firstly checked for proper string alignment relative to the horizontal plane and centre line.

The neck is glued in place using reversible Hide glue.

The soundboard split is cured and loose binding reattached.

The Texan is strung up with D’Addario 12 – 54 strings.

It plays and sounds fantastic and would be a treasured addition to anyone’s collection

Follow this link for enlarged photos on flickr…







 

 

With the help of this neck removal jig the neck is safely removed.

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